Cookies + Markets

One thing I desperately miss about the US around the holidays is how everything centers around food.

It's an excuse to gather, to enjoy, and to eat a bit more than usual with pot-luck style meals and cookie exchanges.

Here people tend to do it all on their own.

I'm always impressed when we visit Stefan's family and there are an array of different cookies all meticulously put together and perfectly bite sized. His Mom has a legendary fondue, which has become a fantastic family tradition, too.

Each year I think I should organize a cookie exchange, because I love variety, but the holiday chaos usually gets in the way. It gets a little trying to make an array of cookies on your own. This year Stefan joined me for a glühwein and evening of baking, which was a lot of fun.

I try to make new recipes, old favorites, and learn some German varieties with lebkuchen and the standard Mürbeteig base.

There seems to be a distinct difference from celebrating in Germany and the US. As with many things I wish that I could meld the two together.

Here people celebrate oftentimes outside and away from their homes. They gather with strangers, neighbors, and friends for Christmas markets and festivals.

The US is a bit commercial with a strong emphasis on gifts, family, and individual traditions.

If we ever move away from Germany I'm certain we'll have an annual Christmas market party - complete with lebkuchen, glühwein, spiced nuts, spätzle, open fires, and undoubtedly our own traditions thrown in.

Here are a few photos from the Tollwood festival, which is an enormous organic around the world style Christmas market, similar to Yellow Springs back home. It takes place on the same grounds as Oktoberfest.

We had some incredible schupfnudeln and spätzle, which came in edible dishes. Isn't that ingenious? 

...and of course our fair share of feuerzangenbowle, which a glühwein with rum over pressed sugar that is then lit on fire. 

Christmas Spirit

Getting into the Christmas spirit seems to take more work than it used to, although that's probably because I'm now the one responsible for creating the magic. It also takes some work to figure out ways to incorporate my traditions while living abroad, as well as learning more about the Bavarian ways of celebrating. I'm certain much of it is self induced, because I love traditions and making things just so.

We've also worked at creating our own family traditions, like simple gift giving with 4 principles: want, need, wear, and read. It's pretty incredible how encompassing those 4 things can be and how much thought goes into finding 4 gifts that suit the categories.

In the recent weeks Munich has been blanketed with snow, which helps with the Wintery feeling. We've been trying to visit as many of the Christmas markets as possible, although my favorites are at the Rindermarkt + Chinese Tower.

The smell of spiced nuts and glühwein waft through the air and the lights seem to glow while people huddle around and complain about their numb toes. This is one aspect that is quintessentially German and absolutely delightful at this time of year. I also appreciate that eating lebkuchen and pomegranates for breakfast is acceptable.

Here are a few of the pretty scenes around town:

The Chinese Tower Christmas Market

Sledding in the English Garden...

How many cities have such a charming downtown park that people can use to cross country ski or go sledding?

Rindermarkt + Haidhausen

The Krampus Run

Tollwood

Ice Skating at Karlsplatz

Hope you're also feeling the holiday glow!

Homemade Glühwein

To start the weekend right how about some glühwein, homemade soup, and cuddling up to hibernate with a good book.

My dear friend Cait sent me the most perfect surprise, the book Just my Type, which is a great collection of stories about fonts. I should have probably waited until Christmas to open it, because it's proving to be a distraction from getting things done and I can't put it down.

I have to will myself out this weekend, because I really want to enjoy the Christmas Markets while they are still here and before the snow turns to slush. We also have to finally get and decorate our tree.

As for the glühwein...I tend to buy the tea bags filled with spices to cheat a little bit, however not everyone has that luxury, so here is a recipe that anyone and everyone can make at home.

I prefer my glühwein less sweet, and I don't add much sugar, although those with a sweet tooth can always add more. It's very forgiving, so you can omit or change spices according your preferences, too.

If you want to make this alcohol-free, or a Kinder Glühwein, simply replace the wine with a combination of cider, cranberry, and or grape juice.

If I really get ambitious I might try to make these glühwein truffels (recipe in German).

Elisen Lebkuchen

Since not everyone is able to make it to Munich for the markets I translated this recipe and made a cute little card to match, so you can have some German Christmas cookies, too.

I've made these several times and Stefan claims they taste like his Oma's, which is clearly a good sign. Best of all they don't have flour or hirschornsalz (baker's ammonia) in them.

The illustrations were so much fun to draw. I'm working on a second edition of my cookbook and debating if I want to do use them as opposed to photos.

I'll post a recipe for homemade glühwein in the coming days as well... homemade is the way to go. The only trouble is it tastes better than most at the Christmas Markets, but the ambiance and warmth keeps drawing me back.

Nürnberg Christkindlmarkt

Day 5 of the advent calendar meant a short trip to Nürnberg to check out one of the most famous Christmas Markets.

There were plenty of bratwürsts, lebkuchen, and glühweins consumed. The variety of glühwein was immense and included blueberry, elderberry, and white wine. The consensus was elderberry was the best, because it wasn't so sweet.

We brought back some of the 'bruch' (broken) lebkuchen, which actually aren't broken at all, but the package presentation isn't as nice as those that are giftable. We also picked up some white glühwein that was named after Albrecht Dürer - the famed printmaker and painter from Nürnberg.

I love the markets, however there are a few things I would improve upon - adding a soup stand for a food option and those outdoor restaurant heaters or fire pits. Spending a few hours outside in the snow means even with several layers the elements begin to really take their toll. We were all frozen to the bone as we ventured back to the train station.

The Christmas season always passes too quickly, but I'm looking forward to visiting more christmas markets before we have to miss them for another year. I'll post photos soon!

Frankfurt

Here are some photos from the Frankfurt and their Römer Christmas Market, which will open this coming weekend.

We were in town for our friend's birthday last weekend, which was a lot of fun.

Being there brought back so many memories of my first days in Germany, although it seemed like another lifetime ago. I used to walk all over that city. Somehow I forgot how many tiny little adorable shops and restaurants they had.

Frankfurt is an interesting place. It's heavily run by money and work life, which makes sense since it's one of Europe's largest financial hubs.

Our hotel room had a balcony that looked onto the Commerzbank Tower and it felt very big city. It's probably an easier city to transition to since it is so international, although we were only there for a short time.

At the party people had mixed responses when I told them I lived in Munich. Some called it posh and wished they lived here, too, while others felt it lacked multiculturalism and was a glorified village.

Advent

Merging traditions is especially important around the holidays. It's difficult to be away from family and not be able to enjoy the festive foods, great company, and different ways of celebrating.

Since moving to Germany I've learned Christmas isn't complete without glühwein, lebkuchen, spiced nuts, Christmas markets, a fondue, and advent calendars.

My friend Emily and I are working on creating a great glühwein spice mix to send home to family. I have my Mother in law's fantastic lebkuchen recipe (Vielen Dank!) - my mom even used it last year and they turned out quite nice. The spiced nuts I make whenever it's even remotely chilly out, and the Christmas markets, well, they can't exactly be recreated. It's magical to stand under the glowing lights with the snow falling and a warm mug of glühwein.

Last, but not least, is the advent calendar.

Germans adore their advent calendars. It's a fun way to add some daily excitement to the Christmas season. I've seen plenty of calendars available, however this one takes the cake... it's so simple, pretty, and modern. The simple typography is stunning. Plus, you can easily reuse the tins year after year and for birthdays.

Stefan has since developed a fondness for American Christmas tunes, my Mom's cookies, my Grandma's baklava, having a Christmas stocking, and blinged out trees with an array of ornaments from our travels. He also appreciates the fact he gets to celebrate twice, since German Christmas is actually celebrated on Christmas Eve.

I'm already thinking of the fun things I'll be filling these tins with, which incidentally begins one month from today!

Vilshofen Christmas market

After visiting Oma we went to visit more family - Steffi + Andi. My mother in law saw the Vilshofen Christmas market on TV, and told us that we should visit. So that is where we decided to go. We were pleasantly surprised at what a wonderful market they have, which is direct on the Donau. They even had part of their market on a boat!

Niederbayern is always unique. The accents are different and the food and celebrations are also special for the area. Surprisingly I can even understand most all of their colloquial jargon. I just had to constantly remind myself not to mock them.

Vilshofen really a glowing place at this time of year, because they use so many decorative lights on their cobble streets and the radiating warmth is just spectacular. At times, I have to remind myself I'm not on a movie set.

Stefan and I sampled many mugs of glühwein, as well as something called a 'seng zelten'. It was a wood fired oven flat bread covered in a variety of ingredients ranging from sour cream and chives to salmon, onions, and cheese.

Everything seemed to be more of a production as well. There was a live nativity and I squealed with excitement when I saw the donkeys. At that point one of Steffi's friends, who we met, asked why I was taking photos of everything. We all had a good laugh about me being the American that loves to take pictures for everyone back home. She thought I was a German and didn't understand why this would be so exciting for me.

There were fire pits to sit around and get warm, as well as a small lodge that was outfitted with cosy decor. No detail was overlooked.

There was even a visit from a couple on stilts, which no one really knew if there was meaning behind it, or if they were just decked out to represent good and evil. I'm not sure how evil fits into the celebrations, but this is the country with krampus.

We were in luck as well, because it was the last day for the market, so they had a big production complete with fireworks from the boat at the end of the night. It was such a local celebration, but we all had a fantastic evening.

I really appreciated seeing the markets from another vantage point. Being able to compare it to Munich's markets made me want to experience more of the smaller hometown markets.

Signs of Christmas

I loved walking through town today and hearing a mix of languages with the smells of spiced nuts, glühwein, and rahm bread wafting through the area. As much as I hate to admit, sometimes it's just great to hear English, especially when I hear the people complaining about not understanding the language. It makes me realize how far I've come.

Stefan always loves visiting the markets and eating the carney foods that they sell, so I had a rahmbrot for him while I was out. It won't take much convincing to get him to visit the Tollwood festival with me and to go to the world foods tent when he's home. Secretly I'm also looking forward to their savory crêpes.

There were many shoppers out trying to beat the holiday rush, and tons of little ones ogling the shop windows. I loved to just stand there and eavesdrop on their excitement and narration of what was going on, especially at the Kaufhof store window, which features a plethora of moving Steiff animals.

I know that the pictures don't do it justice, especially because I couldn't get enough of hearing a little girl say 'putzen!' as she looked at the window and saw one animal cleaning. It's very elaborate and if I stood there any longer I would probably be hypnotized into purchasing one of them, like the adorable chimpanzee.

The children are probably slightly disappointed when they receive one and it doesn't move, clean, and cook, on it's own, like it appeared to in the window, but they warm my little heart.

All of the store windows were interesting. Many shops have gone with the advent theme to promote purchasing multiple items. The variation was really interesting - everything from the Alessi shop to stores for the little ones. Maybe next year I will make a nice one for Stefan. There is plenty of inspiration.

The new Apple store appeared to be quite busy. It seemed so Americanized as soon as I noticed Santa and his elf in the window, of course listening to their ipods. One of the churches downtown is undergoing a facelift and what is more appropriate on the façade than an enormous ipod ad? I guess they have to pay for those renovations somehow.

I also stopped at the Fünf Höfe, which is my catch all shopping spot. I love the Muji store that they have and I was so very happy to find a few things for my little cousins. While in the store I spotted one adorable little dog that had his fill of holiday shopping. He blended in nicely with toys and I would have taken him home in a heartbeat.

Not only did I have a successful day shopping, I was delighted to arrive home to a wonderful package from a dear friend. Inside were beautiful ornaments and yummy candies that we don't have here.

That was definitely the highlight of my day.

It looks like this weekend we'll be decorating and getting some of the Christmas cheer around our apartment, so this thoughtful package came at the perfect time.

Slowly it's feeling more like the holiday season is here.

Neuschwanstein isn't in Salzburg?

I had an interesting tour in Salzburg today. You're probably thinking to yourself, 'When is it not?' That is the thought that I have whenever I come home and simply laugh as I reflect on my day.

Sometimes I am truly amazed at people and this job, much like teaching, it always leaves me with something new to consider. I have to say they give me material for my future tours, when I give random warnings that I never would imagine happening, until of course they do. It's always something, which makes going to work really exciting for me.

Here is today's new experience:

As we were leaving the train station I turned around to make sure there weren't any stragglers that were getting lost. You would be amazed at how easy it is to lose adults.

It was then that I noticed an Italian woman who I thought had paid for the Neuschwanstein tour. I picked her out of the bunch and asked her if she was sure she was going to Salzburg, 'Yes' was her response. Fair enough, she knows what ticket she bought and where she wanted to spend her day.

On we go... and 2 hours later we arrive in Salzburg. Yes, Salzburg the home of Mozart, that is located in Austria, a completely different country.

I get to the middle of the tour, right in front of Mozart's birth home, when she says, 'What about the castle that I paid to go into?' I tried with everything I had to take a deep breath and then I said, 'You came on the wrong tour'. I asked to see her receipt to verify and sure enough she did.

She still did not seem to entirely grasp that there would be no castle tour, unless she cared to visit the largest fortress in Austria. I demonstrated with my hands 6 inches apart, that Füssen is here, where my left hand is, and Salzburg is here, where my right hand is. Not close to each other at all.

She continued to ask me questions and I was so appreciative when the Italian family chimed in, in Italian, that there in fact, would be no visit to Neuschwanstein today, it was too late and she came on the wrong tour. She really didn't seem too taken aback, especially after I reassured her that we'd get her 9€ castle entry refunded.

Minutes later the older couple from Australia tells me, 'We've been traveling all around Europe, and the Italians are the only people we've encountered that we didn't like.'

I really should have enjoyed my free time with a glühwein or two. I'm definitely not in America anymore when I can drink on the job and it's acceptable. Days like this definitely make me appreciate that.

Instead, I went shopping for my cousins and bought the adorable wooden pens I mentioned last week.

Not all was lost, the Italian woman came back with full shopping bags. I'm sure her husband would have preferred if she went to Neuschwanstein.

Krampus

The days of Christmas are near when Krampus makes an appearance. My sister came for the Christmas markets the first year I lived in Germany. We had read about the Krampus Run and were intrigued when we learned about Krampus and Knecht Ruprecht, who join St. Nick on December 5th, only with more sinister intentions. Of course being good little American girls this was something we had never encountered.

When we went into the market I was horrified at how scary the Krampus actually were, even though I knew they weren't 'real'. We also got at good laugh out of a mini-Krampus who was a child dressed in a similar furry suit and his larger companion that smacked Stefan with his switches. Nothing delighted my little heart more than seeing my husband singled out for being a naughty one.

Salzburg gets an early start on their Christmas markets and started theirs on the 20th, while Munich will begin theirs on Friday the 28th. As I meandered around Salzburg's markets I was constantly struck by the devilish grin of Krampus on everything from masks better suited for halloween, to chocolates and gingerbread.

Then there was my favorite - an entire Krampus army made out of dried fruit. I also saw my other Christmas favorite - decorated apples.

On occasion we also have the 'Frohes Weihnachten' variety, as well as the hearts. They are made with stickers while the apples are ripening. I still have to admit they are pretty fascinating, which they should be considering they cost about 2€ for a single apple.

I decided to surprise Stefan with his annual advent calendar, which are quite a big deal around here. I thought the less traditional 'tea a day' was more interesting than the random chocolate. Besides, we don't need an excuse like advent to eat chocolates!

I was reminded on my tours that I absolutely love Salzburg in the winter. I'm not sure how I really forget it, or if I block it out so that it's always something magical. Mirabell gardens slowly take the back seat as all of the stunning colors fade to brown and the rest of the city shines with beautiful lights.

They have a large variety of different kinds of glühwein and plenty of warm mugs to go around. Then there is the ice skating rink in the middle of Mozartplatz that makes my inner teenager squeal with delight. All of it combined really make for a romantic atmosphere.

This year, only half of the Christmas market is up due to the continued excavations, which hold my interest. They must be fielding many questions because they have put up a sign denoting what exactly is happening there. It makes me wonder where they will sell their pitifully small and completely adorable christmas trees this year. The best items at the market that I saw were the wood carved animal pens. They have everything from rabbits, frogs, flamingos, and dogs, to sea horses and sting rays.

I'm really looking forward to getting paid to shop around at the Christmas markets, sample all of the seasonal foods, and of course being able to share this little gem with tourists from around the globe.