Saqqara - سقارة

Our next stop, after Memphis, was Saqqara. I recall studying this in Art History and being very impressed then, so seeing it was such an incredible experience. The area is a necropoleis, which seems slightly morbid, however it is very grandiose and beautiful.

We passed through many palm trees and then suddenly it was desert sprinkled with pyramids. Imhotep's Step Pyramid is the oldest and most impressive. It was built for King Djoser (c.2667-2648 BC). Simply standing there and looking at such an incredible architectural feat made me appreciate the Egyptian's sophistication and skills in engineering.

After visiting the new Imhotep Museum we ventured up to the pyramid. We were promptly greeted by several stray dogs, one proudly resembled a Sphinx. There were several dogs in the area, hanging around the tourists, but not bothering them. This small puppy looked as though he had a sunburned nose. Living in Egypt seems harsh on everyone.

Rani explained some of the history and then we went into the Funerary complex of Djoser. The pillars appeared very organic and I felt as though I was on a movie set as we walked through.

The light and beautiful warm tones made me so happy. Once we entered the Great Court area directly in front of the pyramid, I was simply awestruck.

The entire complex is so interesting, and then considering it was built so long ago makes it really difficult to comprehend. I was very surprised by the dichotomy throughout this entire trip - from religious and economic aspects to how this culture seemingly went from so progressive to conservative and struggling.

The Saqqara area includes not only the pyramid, but also a larger area used for burials and the Heb-Sed festival, where the King would run to certain points and prove his endurance.

Not only were we visiting the world's oldest pyramid, we were also going to see the world's oldest graffiti - courtesy of Ramses II. Evidently he really didn't like anything to go without having his name on it, so he wrote on the walls of The South House.

We quickly learned a bit about 'baksheesh' or the traditional bribe/tip that is often given out in Egypt. As we climbed around The South House there was a tourist police officer who was towards the bottom of the pyramid.

Most of the pyramid was blocked off due to preservation, however he allowed us to go around the back after a quick exchange with Rani.

Towards the back of the pyramid we were guided towards the Serdab - or 'cellar' in Arabic. When we peered through the holes we were greeted with King Djoser himself staring back at us. The original is in the Egyptian Museum, which we would later see, however the Serdab itself is the original. Since so much was based on the after life during this time, King Djoser was aligned to look towards the North Star and the holes were made so he would be able to see the rituals and offerings.

We seem to have a lot of luck with people telling us about secret peep-holes, like the one we saw in Rome. I love that extra attention to detail.

We looked down one of the entry shafts. In the Imhotep musem we were able to see some of the beautiful faïence tiles that were used in some of the burial chambers (sorry, photos weren't allowed). The blue-green hue is most likely due to the belief that life comes from water.

They say "Man fears time, But time fears the pyramids", but in the meantime they are doing a lot of preservation work as well. It's very amazing and humbling to consider how much people are capable of - in creating or destroying.

It was nice to experience some of the solitude and calmness while we were there on our own. I really couldn't help but wonder what else is buried underneath the sands.

Rani also added to our pop culture knowledge by telling us that Indian Jones was filmed here.

The afternoon heat was starting to warm up and I could only imagine what the people went through to build these structures, which obviously took a lot of time. We were reminded time and time again that they were not created by slaves, especially taking into account the precision and attention to detail that was required to withstand the test of time.

Again, it made some of the scaffolding and restoration tools seem rather archaic. It also made our modern buildings seem so temporary and boring. The brut strength to create these pyramids - gathering natural materials, creating the pigments, transporting things, and making them structurally sound, is very incredible.

Many areas have not been fully excavated simply because there is so much to look at and categorize. It's a wonderful place to be an archeologist!

The Step Pyramid is not the only pyramid in the area. Sadly. some of the pyramids aren't as elaborate - after all, not all could be fit for the King! Erosion has worn some of them down to resemble hills, like the pyramid of Unas (pictured above and below), from the Fifth Dynasty.

While we opted not to ride a camel or donkey, I still think they are absolutely precious and so Mid-East.

Saqqara was one of my favorite places during our entire trip. I really appreciated its isolation and complexity.

Memphis

We started our tour bright and early from our hotel. Before arriving in Cairo I booked a private guide, named Rani, who proved to be an invaluable asset. He took care of our transportation, entry fees, and provided so much information. I was thoroughly impressed by all of his knowledge and consideration.

Our first stop was Memphis - The old capital of Ancient Egypt. Along the drive I was trying to take in all of the scenery. It truly was a different world- Women steadily balanced things on their heads as they walked down the streets, men guiding their animal drawn carriages, and occasionally children herding animals.

The Memphis area is rather lush in comparison to the vast desert area. There were many fruits and vegetables being harvested and sold on the road sides.

Upon our arrival we stopped at the Rameses II bazaar and open air museum. The enormous 10m (33ft) tall statue of Rameses II is on display inside the covered museum. He sounds as though he was quite a character and perhaps slightly arrogant. Rani told us that many of the statues were marked with the cartouche of Rameses II. He most certainly didn't want to be forgotten.

Also in the park are sculptures of various other Gods including Hathor, Isis, and Ptah.

Another jewel of Memphis is the alabaster Sphinx, which dates back to the 19th Dynasty in 1200 BC. It was carved from one single piece of alabaster and approximately 13 feet high and 24 feet long and with an estimated weight of 80 tons.

Stefan and I were both awe struck by the sheer size, precision, and attention to detail in each of these sculptures. It's also amazing how well they are preserved. As for the Sphinx, the side is somewhat deteriorated due to water damage from when it was found.

The smoothness of Ramses II's skin, his perfectly lined kilt, and his sheer size demonstrate his affluence and how much he was revered by the people at this time.

The entire outdoor museum was very impressive. I'm so intrigued by the skill that it took to carve such intricate and detailed hieroglyphs.

As we drove through one of the small villages Rani stopped to purchase some oranges for us. While the car was stopped a few boys sat nearby motioning towards us for money. We were clearly outsiders with money and it was the first instance where I felt foreign. Rani quickly returned with a large bag of oranges, which were delicious and we carried on our way. I was warned before we went that I should try to tame my compassion, which is extremely difficult for me. I have an inner urge to help people through any means necessary.

In the area there were many Oriental carpet schools, where tour buses were being herded in. I once read that Cairo is where marketing and sales were invented. Everyone claims to have what you are looking for, especially in terms of papyrus, perfume, and carpets. Some of the guides perhaps make a commission from taking their tourists to these sites.

Rani spent a few months in the outskirts of Salzburg, so he was well versed in reading our cues. He would mention more shopping oriented sites and ask if we had any interest before taking us. He made recommendations, suggesting if we were interested in buying any cartouche jewelry that we should purchase it at a factory instead of a shop in town. I probably should have gotten a silver bracelet or something unique, however we didn't have a lot of time for shopping.

Our only stop was to a papyrus 'museum'. The man gave us a demonstration in German and we bought a papyrus with a scarab and our last name on it. We quickly learned that Egyptians are very well versed in other languages. I was so impressed to hear guides speaking Italian, Spanish, English, German, and Japanese. It was even more fun once we went to the souk.

Mind the Gap

Our monthly trip marathon is slowly winding down. The month of May will be filled with studying and I will be going back to work. Fingers crossed (or in German - I'm holding my thumbs) that there are a fair amount of tourists this year.

But, oh yes, what about April?

We have decided to spend a very long Easter weekend in... London! It's been about six years since I was there - nearly being hit by cars as I looked the wrong way to cross the street, enjoying that accent, those pubs, and not having to speak another language.

On top of that, every time I think of London, I think of someone else I know that recently moved there - a couple of my sorority sisters, a few old friends, a few new friends, and of course the newest edition - Volker. No pressure on Volker, but I'm already sure he has turned the city upside down investigating every nook and cranny. After studying bioinformatics he's accustomed to learning the intricacies of everything, including the soul of even the largest cities.

My friend Cait suggested the London transport museum and the Tate, which sound fantastic. I should probably head back to the British Museum to see the Rosetta Stone again and all of their Egyptian art, since we are fresh from Egypt.

Here are a few restaurants I wouldn't mind checking out:
freedbirds on exmouth market
daddy donkey
La Fromagerie
Mahiki
Scott's
Wahaca

[edit: people seem to find this post by looking for Wa*haka the Mexican restaurant here in Munich, so I made a link for that as well]

Basically I am in dire need of delicious food (especially Mexican and cheeses), some new pants - since working out is paying off quicker than I expected, and a few new books.

Any other tips are gladly welcomed!!

I hope to see some of you if you're in town!

ocui

We went to ocui [open cuisine] for lunch today. It was picked from our date jar.

It's located at 'Der Angerhof', which is a beautiful upscale living area in the heart of the city. It's close to Sendlinger Tor, Rindermarkt, and The Jüdisches Museum.

The restaurant is very modern, simple, and beautiful. They also have a courtyard, which helps to keep it very bright.

While they serve antipasti, salads, soups, pizzas, pastas, and asian rice dishes, we opted for pizza as soon as we saw that it's wood fired. The portions are rather large, so we could have easily shared one. It wasn't the pizza we had in Rome, however it was still very good and inexpensive (all dishes under 10€).

It is very similar in concept to other 'open kitchens' in Munich, such as Gast and Vapiano, they all serve similar foods and have a card, which functions as a tab that you pay when you leave. I'm sure we'll be back for a quick, reliable, and inexpensive meal.

Cairo Plans

We are leaving for Cairo in less than 10 days, which is exciting and nerve wrecking.

We've been really fortunate, because my old roommate taught there for 2 years and her ex-boyfriend, Seif, is still there. He's been providing a lot of help and I'm already amazed by his gracious generosity. He gave us his phone number and offered to drop off an extra SIM card at our hotel. He's also planning evening activities for us!

We took his hotel suggestion and will stay at the Marriott Zamalek, which is on an island. The hotel is an old palace right on the Nile, and from the photos we've seen it looks pretty striking. I'm already really excited about all of the beautiful little details.

Evidently the island is also home to many of the consulates and ex-pats as well, so we won't stick out like sore thumbs, at least as much.

We're still trying to decide which guide to go with when Seif is working. I read about an American woman who owns a company there, but her prices are really steep - she quoted us over 500€ for two days! That's especially heavy when I know the cost of living isn't nearly so high. We've also had offers for less than half that from an Egyptologist, including virtually the same itinerary.

This is going to be a very fascinating and interesting trip! We have quite the adventure ahead of us.

As always, any suggestions or other recommendations are always welcome!

(photos: trip advisor)

Deutschkurs

Another German class came to an end. I really loved the class. Everyone put forth a lot of effort and came from such diverse backgrounds.

Cait made some delicious and beautiful 'fairy cakes' (cupcakes in American English). Sapir brought the kids that she is an au pair for. They entertained us and touched everything with their chocolified hands. It was pretty funny to watch them gorge on chocolates and cakes.

I brought my favorite candies from America called Take 5. They have chocolate, peanut butter, carmel, and pretzels in them. I also made some small Zwetschgendatschi (plum tarts) and pumpkin cookies.

During the course we had to give a presentation. Sapir gave hers on Israel, her homeland, and then Andrea asked if there was a good Israeli restaurant in Munich. Someone mentioned one called 'Cafe Schmock'. She looked surprised and then said that means penis in Hebrew. I don't know if it was an error in pronunciation or not. When she asked if anyone had any questions Ugur said, 'Wait a minute, I don't understand what 'schmock' means.'

These are the lost in translation moments that I love.

Our next class started on Monday and it's an even larger and more diverse group of people. At least most of the last class has continued so we are together.

I'm still trying to update as often as possible.

Munich vs. Hannover

I always get a good laugh at the Bayern games when they announce goals and regardless of the opponent's score, the people yell 'null'. We survived the bone chilling, snowy game, thanks to friends and many cups of glühwein and hot chocolate.


The result... Bayern 5! - Hannover - null (1)

It's worth going to the games just to look at the arena - it's so unique!

Rome: Day 4

The morning of our last day, while Stefan slept, I discovered why there was an enormous line of people on our way to the Maltese keyhole. We had passed the Santa Maria in Cosmedin church.

In their portico is 'La Bocca della Verità' or better known as 'The Mouth of Truth'. We had talked about it the day before, although we weren't certain where it was located. I couldn't believe we were right there. Not all was lost, we decided to head back to see it.

Stefan stopped for an espresso - using the tip to get it at Caffé Greco counter, like the Italians. I don't drink coffee, but he said it was wonderful.

On our way to 'The Mouth of Truth' we also had a pleasant surprise at the Circus Maximus. I assume it was some kind of club, but there were marching gladiators speaking Latin. On occasion they would start chanting 'Roma'. It was odd, but somehow fitting.

The costumes were very elaborate and interesting. Somehow they seemed less kitschy than the gladiators in front of the Colosseum that were trying to make a profit for pictures with tourists.

I didn't see too much graffiti around the city (mainly in the Jewish Ghetto area), which somehow surprised me. I guess people may realize leaving their mark isn't as substantial as the ancient ruins around the city.

It was difficult to leave, but the drizzly weather helped to make that easier. It's always fitting to have a spectacular trip that ends with rain on the day to go home. Even though it was only a long weekend, we really started to feel at home. We went to the grocery in the neighborhood and even began to find favorite places. I'm definitely looking forward to a trip back at some point. We even made it to throw our coins in the Trevi right before we left.

Once we arrived back to Munich and the longest winter ever, I was sad that my Italian pastas and confections would soon run out. That was until my classmate Julia, from Spain, told me about Mitte Meer, here in Munich. It's located in the Kunstpark (behind Ostbahnhof) and it's a Mediterranean grocery with a really nice array of wines, meats, cheeses, fish, and confections. We went together after class and now I'm hooked. They even have Pan di Stelle cookies and Manchego cheese - all year round!

Rome: Day 3

As soon as we excited the subway the Colosseum was directly in front of us. The weather was fantastic and really made me ache for Spring.

I can't believe all of the ancient ruins. The Coloseum was used as a cultural experience in it's heyday some 2000 years ago. People would go for entertainment to see humans fighting humans and humans fighting animals. The animals would not be fed for days before the fights. Often times the gladiators would be injured and plead for mercy. Those who were permitted to stop fighting would often die from their wounds.

The Colosseum itself was constructed with steps on various levels and those were the seats. A person's status would denote where they were to sit, with women sitting at the very top. The façade was a combination of marble and plaster to make it appear white, which made it an example of the people's wealth. What's so impressive is the engineering and design. It still serves as the model for stadiums and arenas around the world.

We opted to go on an English tour, which was interesting. We were surprised to learn that a lot of materials were taken from the Colosseum and used for various other buildings in Rome, including St. Peter's Basilica. We also learned many of the smaller holes contained wood beams, which disintegrated due to time.

Many people claim there were water battles at the Colosseum, however it's not known if that was true. According to our guide, who was officially with the Colosseum, it appears as though that was mentioned in some kind of ancient document, however it's not known exactly which Colosseum was being referred to. There were several others in the area and closer to the Circus Maximus.

There were so many interesting details and it was so fascinating to look things and wonder about. The shapes and lines were striking and the newer additions, such as a cat who made itself at home somehow seemed fitting.

There was also a beautiful view from the Colosseum looking towards the Forum Romanum and the Arch of Constantine. There's so much to see in this compact area.

The Forum Romanum was the hub of faith, justice, and economics. It's so incredible that these ruins date back to
The only reason many of them were preserved was because they were marked with a cross and converted from pagan worship sights to Christian churches. The Forum dates back to the times of Julius Caesar between 100 BC and 44 BC! That's so incredible.

Near by is also the modern center of government at the Capitoline Hill, which was in part designed by Michelangelo. It was so exciting to see Romulus and Remus, the feral children founders of Rome in the Statue of the Capitoline Wolf.

The Palantine Hill and Circus Maximus are also very close. This is the area where they would have chariot races... and now it's an open field. It was somewhat strange to see people going for a run on the ruins, but I understand life has to go on - and there's not much left anyway.

We went to visit the secret key hole, which is in such a beautiful area. The 'Giardino degli Aranci' at the top of the Aventine Hill is definitely also worth a stop. I don't want to completely spoil the secret, but I will say you have to walk until you see the Egpytian and more importantly Maltese Consulates. In front of the Maltese Consulate is the door (Priorato di Malta). You will probably be slightly taken aback once you see military men with machine guns, but just walk past. There will most likely be a line of people, but it's such an incredible sight. It's something you can only capture with your eye.

For dinner we considered going to the Sora Margherita (association restaurant), however we also wanted to sample what's been hailed as the best pizza in Rome. We went to check both restaurants out, which was quite a hike, but ultimately our decision was swayed by a combination of tired feet and Italians Grandmas.

We read that we would need to be very prompt and that doors opened at 6:30PM. As soon as we arrived there were three Italian Grandmas knocking on the door and trying to get the owner's attention. We knew that was a good sign. Not long after a line began to form. Through the windows we could see the men loading up the wood fired oven and getting things ready for what I presume is a standard evening. After Signore Baffetto opened the doors people were ushered in. Since we were second in line we picked a table directly next to the oven so we could watch them work.

It took no time for the restaurant to fill and for another line to form. I loved the unpretentious realness. It felt like we were sitting in someone's kitchen, our pitcher of wine was chipped, and there were many drawings and photos hanging on the walls. Signore Baffetto didn't care if you didn't speak or understand Italian - he just kept rattling on. We quickly ordered and ate our pizzas and then decided to order more. The man making our pizzas looked puzzled and asked our waiter something. He looked at our table and then we heard 'quatro'. Evidently two people don't typically order 4 pizzas. The French couple next to us was slightly nerved when we received our second round of pizzas and paid before they had even gotten their first order. I also have to mention once things picked up a second pizza maker came in and he had that raspy Italian voice you always hear on movies. It seemed so fitting. The grand total for 4 pizzas, sparkling water, and a half liter of wine - less than 50€!

We took our left overs back to our apartment for a quick breakfast the next day. On our walk home we stopped at a bakery and enjoyed some Amaretti cookies. I really need to get a good recipe from my Italian classmate.

We knew it would be really difficult to leave on our last day.