Another excuse for soccer

The Europameisterschaft began this weekend, although we weren't entirely able to get excited for various reasons. Last summer there were ads around Vienna for the games and it's crazy how fast the time has passed. 

Last night Stefan suited up in his jersey, hung a German flag, popped open a beer, and then asked me for a little bit more enthusiasm. One thing I love about the games is that Stefan and his father always bond over them. As soon as it's half time they call one another and debate who played well and how ridiculous missed plays were. 

It's also very nice to see the patriotism return. As we were driving the autobahn many people had flags flying from their cars. 

I'd really like to have a cookout tonight. The next couple of weeks will be filled with soccer and a uniting patriotic buzz that hums in the streets which I haven't seen since the World Cup. 

I'm going to tentatively be in Austria on Thursday so I will be interested to see if there's as much excitement there. As a side note, if you are traveling to Austria from inter continental Europe bring your passport - I hear they are trying to keep the hooligans out with that. 

A New Beginning (Bavarian Wedding)

Despite the difficult and surreal start to the day we carried on with the second part. The church ceremony was very similar to a Catholic wedding ceremony in America. It opened with 'Oh Happy Day' sung by a gospel choir which helped to set the mood of being thankful for each and every day. Everyone did their best to concentrate on the joy and positive aspects.

Steffi had always wanted a dove release, which was a nice touch. I was happy to see her smile so much and of course to welcome her to the family. She's such a beautiful person - both inside and out.

All of the little boys were matching and the flower girl told me she was a princess. The children really completed the day - especially for me because they are so forgiving if I don't speak perfectly. Sometimes I like to speak English to them just to see their reactions. They usually don't say anything about it but the younger ones seem to pay more attention.

After the ceremony we walked to the reception site and began the celebration. I cringed as Steffi's dress got dirty and I heard several rips from the little ones accidently stepping on it.

Village school children also greeted guests and prepared several surprises for Andi + Steffi, who are both teachers. As we left the church they held up various math tools and rulers for the guests to walk under (Andi teaches Math). They later did the traditional rope raising, where guests must pay the children to enter the reception. During the cocktail hour they sang a song they had written to the newlyweds and then presented them with flowers and gifts.

The courtyard was beautiful and we enjoyed cava and conversations. I met Andi's aunt on his father's side who had spent a lot of time in the US. She was trying to get her twin grandchildren, who are in kindergarten, to speak English to me. The little boy ran up and screamed 'I love you'. Everyone turned to look, which made me laugh.

An interesting detail was that they served 'krapfen' (donuts) after the wedding. My mother in law said this was typical. I wasn't too interested in eating one, however my father in law has a sweet tooth and asked if I would please eat half of one with him. It reminded me of a donut without sugar.

Just as the rain was about to begin we took the celebration inside. Andi and Steffi had been taking dance lessons and much of the evening revolved around dancing. My father in law even asked me to dance, which was sweet. Their first dance was to 'Que Será Será', which seemed tailored to the day.

As the evening carried on I waited for Stefan to call. His mom wanted to break the news to him about his Oma before he arrived. It was smart not to tell him before his test, however I didn't want him driving while he was upset either. There wasn't a good time to tell him. 

Once Stefan arrived he was able to see that people were enjoying themselves despite the circumstances. We shared a few dances and chatted with family. It was almost a blessing to have a family celebration rather than sit somewhere with everyone grieving.

Andi + Steffi's coworkers also joined in on the fun and made the guests 'students' with Andi and Steffi while they made jokes and sang songs they had written.

The food was all delicious and I could not believe how impressive the dessert buffet was. They even had personalized the menus with random photos from our past. Every detail was meticulously planned.

The final songs made me cry tears of joy for having Stefan with me safe and sound and to see what a beautiful day Andi and Steffi had. Everyone stood in a circle holding candles while they danced and it was touching.

Another sweet touch was as we were leaving they handed us photos taken that very morning with a 'Danke'. I don't know how they got them printed so quickly, but they are very beautiful.

Stefan and I wish Andi and Steffi lived closer. They are big travelers, so perhaps we'll plan a trip together sometime soon. They are such a great couple.

This morning we had brunch at Steffi's parents' house. They still had mountains of cakes and other confections when we left. It was a wonderful way to tie up the festivities and end the emotional roller coaster weekend on a nice note.

An Ending

I really don't even know how to begin a post like this... it was a long weekend so I have split this up.

Stefan had a professional certification exam on Saturday morning, so it was decided that I would drive to Niederbayern with his parents for the wedding so I wouldn't miss any of it. As soon as I saw them under their umbrella I knew something was amiss. Stefan's Mom gave me a hug and told me her mother had passed away early that morning. It was very sudden.

Situations like this are always slightly awkward and difficult, but coupling that with another language and another culture makes it even more complicated. It becomes a struggle just to express myself, and I fear that I come off differently than I would in my native tongue since I have a limited vocabulary and delayed reactions as I take it all in. The car ride was spent with a lot of silence and occasionally mentioning what a shock this was and what a struggle the wedding would be.

Deaths are never easy or welcomed, however since it was also her grandson Andi's wedding the same day we had to mask the grief and celebrate. Oma also lived in the same house as Andi and Steffi until just a couple weeks ago, so it's especially difficult for them to come home to an empty house still filled with her things.

When we arrived to their house, Andi was trying to get ready and calm his nerves. I looked around at her dated decor and possessions, which greatly differs from the apartment Andi and Steffi share upstairs. Her calendar hadn't been changed to June. It really seemed like time had stopped. I thought how sad it was that she wouldn't be back to see it decorated for the wedding. My mother in law pointed out her Oma's hats neatly arranged on her bed and commented how she always was chic. It's sad she never got to wear the dress she bought for this special day.

After making visits to other family members we had to get ready for the big day. Sadly, I had to do so alone since Stefan was finishing his test. I wanted to stop thinking about how hard he would take the news and just hug him, but I had to wait.

My mother in law continually said, 'The day has two halves and we should celebrate for Andi + Steffi', so that's just what we did.

While Stefan's Dad and I were driving alone, I found it sweet that he mentioned he was worried about Steffi's wedding dress if it continued to rain. I still remember him brushing the dirt off of mine. Sometimes I see small glimmers of Stefan and realize that's where he got his chivalrous attitude.

Times like these just make me appreciate enjoy the moment that much more since people are never promised more time.

Rain

Lately we have had nonstop rain, so it's perfect weather for getting things done inside. Last year we had a bit of an external hard drive melt down that still pains me to think about.

We lost a lot.

Lesson learned - I try to keep on it and back things up- everyone's favorite thing to do right? The perfect rainy day activity.

It's also nice to see distant memories and beautiful things.

As I was going through our old photos and burning them to DVDs, I came across a few gems that I had forgotten about. One of them was this picture that I took in the car during a torrential storm... I just think it's so pretty with the lights glowing through.

I really love rain storms... unless it's my entire vacation. I hope tourists don't think Munich is always this gray and dreary.

Lauren is coming!

One of the most difficult aspects of living abroad is having friends constantly say they want to visit or are going to... except it never happens. Life gets in the way, people have babies, and here I sit getting my hopes up for nothing. Leave it to Lauren to actually book a flight. I am so excited!

I first met Lauren in college when we both flew to Galway, Ireland to visit our friend Mary Beth. From the moment I met her, I loved her. She's one of those people that I admire for being true and honest... both to herself and to everyone she encounters. She has a dry sense of humor, the biggest smile you ever saw, and an enormous personality to match. We lived together the summer after we met and shared many memorable events.

Our days were spent with occasional class or a few hours of work, and there were endless evenings singing the songs of Moulin Rouge and Jack Johnson while we prepared for parties and nights out. Summer was enjoyed just how it should be - with friends, sun, and a lot of fun. We even managed a rather long road trip to Charleston, South Carolina.

That summer is forever one that I'll never forget. I spent 10 days in San Francisco with my Dad, and I lived with some amazing ladies that always kept things interesting. I was living with Lauren when I met Stefan. I still remember standing in her kitchen and harassing him about not being able to stand the heat from the chicken wings he was eating. He has since built up his tolerance. 

Whenever I think about Lauren I can't help but smile. I can't wait to create more great memories with her, and take her to Austria, where she's always wanted to visit. Not only that - she's going to be here for Oktoberfest and the Coldplay concert! We wish you could be with us Mary Beth - at least you have a valid excuse not to make it... and I know you will as soon as you can.

Orikane

Orikane is the art of dollar bill folding, similar to Origami or as some say 'Moneygami'. When we were married we received many cash gifts. I think this may be more customary in Germany and also due to the fact I was moving. The money was not simply placed in an envelope - it was presented. We received a 'cactus', which was a cucumber with money sticking out in every direction, a 'shirt' that said they'd give us the shirt off their back, 'butterflies' with homemade jams, and many organaza bags filled with notes. They were all very unique and memorable. 

I was looking for creative ways to give money with an orchid and art work when I came across the Dollar Artist. 

I remember folding notes in school and making them into hearts or one that you could pull a tab to open. I'd wanted to do something sweet and romantic to fit the wedding theme, but then something like the elephant looks so precious. Last we heard they were considering a trip to India for their honeymoon, so I thought we could write something about using the money towards elephant food and I'd make an Orikane elephant. 

Not so simple...

These sites look wonderful, however I didn't have much patience with tiny folds - and the fact that Euros aren't the same size as US dollars, so I resorted to the old stand by - hearts. I think it turned out nicely. 

I'm already looking forward to seeing what a Bavarian wedding is all about and to welcome Steffi to the family.

Last day of language school

I'm always a bit of a sucker for the last day of something. Language school is hard to say goodbye to because I really enjoy the class and my classmates as well as the consistency and familiar faces. It's also nice to know I'm not doing so bad after scoring a 96% on my final. It helps me feel purposeful. The first part of class was life as usual and the second part we had a bit of a party.

Some people made cakes, while others brought food and drinks. There was plenty of food to go around and we all enjoyed chatting about our weekend plans and home lands.

Catheriné brought some of her French cheese, which was divine. It makes me want to pack my bags for another trip to France. Her parents had just visited and she was kind enough to bring that to share. Not only that, she knew how much I loved it and sent some home with me. I brought in brownies per her request and I was surprised when people wanted to take the left overs home, which was fine by me! We will stay in touch, which is nice.

We gave our teacher a bouquet of roses and some chocolates as a thank you. Classes start again on Monday and I am debating if I should try to work and go to class. The downside is that the class is getting divided up to compensate for different learning paces so we won't all stay together anyway. I'm happy to have met some wonderful people that helped make class even more rewarding.

amaretti cookies

Munich has a lot of Italian influence - from the architecture and delicious restaurants, to men who ventured up from Italy that greet women with 'Ciao Bella'. Unfortunately the siesta hasn't quite caught on here, but the coffee culture has.

My favorite thing about coffee, is the amaretti cookies that typically accompany a cappuccino. That would be my favorite part since I don't drink coffee. The soft ones are especially delicious.


Lately I can't eat enough of them. I'm going to try to make my own in the coming days. Not that I need more... but I have been riding my bike a lot and will have plenty of time to bake with German class ending.

Visitor's Guide to Munich

I have previously written about my favorite things in Munich, which you can get to by clicking the link. Other posts about Munich can be found here.

If you're visiting Munich on a budget, you can see my favorite things to do while spending only 30€ a day here.

...and if you are looking for information about Oktoberfest click here.

If you are an expat or new to Munich also check out Internations, which is a networking resource to get out and meet other expats in your new city.

Obviously the list will continue to grow and I will do my best to update it when I stumble upon great things.

These are some of the restaurants + stores that I enjoy and hopefully some helpful info for tourists. Please let me know if you have questions or are planning a trip by commenting on any post. I'll do what I can to help!

Some of my favorite restaurants - addresses and locations can be found on the respective websites. I've marked my favorites with a star.★

Inexpensive

• Vapiano - open kitchen Italian. German chain that is opening in the US.
• Gast - open kitchen pizzas, pastas, salads, + rice dishes
• Ocui - open kitchen pizzas, pastas, salads, + rice dishes [review]
• Kaimug - Thai
• ★ Taco Libre - Chipotle-esque tacos, quesadillas, and burritos [review]
• Dean + David - fresh salads, wraps, and specialty dishes
• Schnelle Liebe - pastas, salads, + focaccias
• ★ Stachaus Passagen - lots of inexpensive food options in a beautiful space
• ★ Le Buffet - top floor of Oberpollinger department store (right near Karlsplatz). Upscale cafeteria with great food, a beautiful roof top dining area, and huge portions. The stir fry is my favorite.
• Pasta e Basta - Italian. I've never been, but I always hear it's very inexpensive with large portions. Many dishes are less than 6€.
• If you are looking for a grocery in the city, they are located in the basement of many of the department stores.

Beer gardens + Bavarian food

• You may want to sample various beers from different companies, or if you are partial to one you can visit their specific biergarten.
• A word to the wise - if you go to Hofbräuhaus you will be amongst tourists. You can walk through without eating there. The food is better elsewhere.
• Stammtisch - this is the table designated for the regulars, it typically has a table cloth and sign. Don't sit there.
• You can bring your own food into the biergartens, although not the outdoor restaurant area that is served. Bringing your own beer is 'verboten'.
• Michaelibad - a bit off the beaten track, located in the multi cultural Ostpark. Scenic with a nice pond.
• ★ Paulaner am Nockherberg- sit down restaurant + beer garden. My favorite place for Bavarian food. Mostly locals.
• ★ Wirtshaus in der Au - knödel dumplings and great Bavarian food in a quiet neighborhood. 
• Hofbräukeller + Biergarten at Wienerplatz - a nice neighborhood biergarten in Haidhausen with many trees. [it's beautiful, but a bit trendy and can be difficult to find a place to sit]
• ★ Augustiner Keller - Home to Munich's beloved beer with a great beer hall atmosphere and affordable food.
• Hirschgarten - large park + biergarten complete with 'hirsch' (deer).
• ★ Chinesischer Turm - Chinese tower located in the Englischer Garten. Live music and a mix of tourists and locals.

Nicer dinners

• Tramin - reputed to be the best restaurant in the city with an inventive menu
• Cocoon - mixed menu with interesting combinations
• ★ zum Goldenen Kalb - the best steak house in the city
• Brenner Grill - pastas and Italian foods
• Hippocampus - mixed menu with a large variety of fish - beautiful courtyard

Unique / Specialty

• ★ Nero - exquisite wood fired pizzas with terrific value. One of my favorites.
• Bernard + Bernard - crepes. Located at Innerer-Wiener-Str. 32 (Haidhausen) - small restaurant with delicious variety.
• ★ Ganesha - Indian. My heart swells for this food + it's the best I've found in the city. 
• ★ Pavesi Picnic - modern Indian inspired dishes in a beautiful atmosphere. 
• Welser - Kuche - medieval dinner complete with ancient recipes (located under the Feldhernnhalle at Odeonsplatz)
• ★ The Burger House - the very best burgers in all of Munich, even for an American. 
• Blind Angel - dinner in the dark
• Pommes Boutique - french fries with 20 sauces
• Condesa - Tacos, burritos, and quesadillas 
• ★ Fei Scho - dim sum with Bavarian influences [review]
• Cosmo Grill - gourmet burgers
• ★ LaBaracca - Italian style tapas with a self serve wine bar
• ★ Milagros - charming + authentic Mexican food
• ★ Nomiya - Bavarian meets Japanese 
• ★ Sababa - awesome and inexpensive falafels at Viktualienmarkt 
• Emiko - small portion Japanese inside the Louis Hotel.
• Sasou - quick asian dishes (mainly Japanese) with a beautiful interior
• Sushi + soul - sushi
• Mao - chinese
• ★ Cyclo - vietnamese 
• Schneewittchen - a beautiful little café with coffee + pastries
• Theresa - great atmosphere with a wide array of grilled foods
• UniLounge - lounge bar with a beautiful interior. Many young people + students.
• Lorenzo Corno gelato (Hohenzollernstraße 44) - my favorite taste of Italian gelato in Munich.
• ★ Ballabeni gelato (Theresienstraße 46) - serves the same gelato as Lorenzo Corno's, but closer to the city center. You'll be dreaming of this for a long time!
• Schubeck's ice cream - specialty flavors
• Sarcletti's ice cream - specialty flavors
• Der verrückte eis macher - really off beat ice cream, weißwurst, sweet mustard, Augustiner...
• Gesellschaftsraum - an interesting fusion menu with very unusual parings [review]
• ★ Negroni - the best cocktail bar in the city
• ★ Maelu - incredible pastries 

Shopping

• ★ Stancsics - specialty truffles + chocolates (try the salt chocolate!)
• Stolberg- high end chocolates
• ★ Schrannenhalle - Indoor market with individual stalls. It's lovely. 
• Dallmayr - Munich's high end grocery. You can get lunch to go, or specialty items to take home
• Käfer - another upscale grocery with a large selection
• Tea House - an enormous assortment of loose tea, candy with tea, tea pots... everything tea related
• Angermaier - nice 'tracht' (dirndls + lederhosen)
• Fünf Höfe - architecturally stunning shopping mall in the city center. Great place for inexpensive meals.
• Muji - Japanese 'no brand' store
• Alessi - design store inside Fünf Höfe
• Obacht' - modern Bavarian souvenirs
• ★ servus heimat - another great shop for modern Bavarian / Munich items
• Hugendubel English - Book store with English books + magazines
• Literatur Moths - an interesting book shop with a modern selection - the children's books are particularly nice.
• Kleidermarkt - vintage, thrift, and new clothing... always something new. 
• ★ Bears + Friends - exotic gummy candies - if you like spicy things try the chili peppers. I love them. The tea leaves are delicious, too. 
• ★ COS - collection of style... my favorite clothing store
• ★ Globetrotter - impressive outdoor / travel store with many interesting elements
• ★ Kokolores - a great stationery/curiosities shop in a great neighborhood
• Magazin - design store inside Fünf Höfe with many Scandinavian designers represented
• Kokon - home wares
• Kare - home wares + unique furniture
• Kochgut - anything you'd want for a well designed kitchen
• Butlers - entertaining + kitchen accessories with unique table settings
• Das Depot - modern homewares and inexpensive seasonally themed gifts
• 1260 Grad - handmade dishwear by Petra Fischer
• Janik + Janik - a tiny, but beautiful stationery and gift shop
• Carta Pura - unique and specialty papers
• Semicolon - another paper shop with a decent selection
• Engel + Bengel - design oriented gifts for little ones and moms to be

*my favorite gifts to take home are : exotic honey, jams, teas, chocolates, curry ketchup, gummy candies, creamy balsamics, and mustards. They have an enormous variety for each of these.

There are also a large assortment of Birkenstock sandals, which are one of the few things that seem to be cheaper here than in other countries. (My favorites are the Madrid style).

Tourist information offices

• Pick up brochures and other information about Munich and surrounding cities. Locations at the Hauptbahnhof (near Busbahnhof) and in Marienplatz.
• A helpful pdf file can be downloaded here (in English): Young and about in Munich
• Prepare for your trip while looking at Munich Daily Photo

Subways + Public Transport

• Public transport here is safe, affordable, efficient, and widely used.
• Coming from the airport you will need to purchase a ticket. While the transport is based on the honor system, being fined 40€+ per person won't leave you happy. For additional information about traveling to and from the airport click here.
• Group tickets are good for up to 5 people and are good for the entire day.
• Maps and bus plans can be obtained free of charge at tourist information or at the Marienplatz underground MVV office.
• Buying a weekly ticket is sometimes the best option. Depending on how far you want to travel (how many rings). They offer unlimited travel within the number of selected rings. Be aware this will not work to get you to the airport, unless you purchase the more expensive ticket, which defeats the purpose.
• Tickets can be used on straßenbahns, Ubahns, Sbahns, and buses. The same ticket is valid on all modes of public transport.
• Validate your ticket in the blue box - the only needs to be done once at the start of your journey. Weekly tickets do not need to be validated, nor do those with the date pre-stamped.
• Subway doors do not open automatically - you will need to push the button or pull the handle.
• Use the MVV route planner (also in English) - it can tell you the fastest routes and you will see more of the city if you're not always taking the subway.
• Straßenbahn 17 is known as the sightseeing line - take a ride and hop off when you see something interesting.

Best City Views

• Alte Peter - not for the faint of heart. It's a climb, but the views are worth it. My favorite time is at dusk to watch the sunset. I also like having Frauenkirche in the view (I took the above photo there)
• Frauenkirche - elevator ride to see Munich from above. 3€.
• Olympiadorf - this is student housing, however there's a great view on the 15th floor roof terrace. On a good day you can see the Alps.
• Olympia tower - large panorama of the city
• Olympiaberg - for those less inclined to heights, is a large hill made entirely out of trash from WWII that also provides great views of the city + Olympic park
• Olympic tent climbing - walk along the tent tops from the 1972 Olympics

Popular things to do in and around Munich

• Free city tour - This 3 hour walking tour meets daily at 10:45am + 11:45am in Marienplatz in front of Mary's Column (the golden statue). Workers get paid by tips. Very informative and a nice inner city tour.
• If you come with children have them look for the 'Münchener Kind' or lions (the symbols of Munich)... they are everywhere.
• Visit one of the parks - Englischer Garten + Ostpark are large and distinctly different. Munich is very much a city that loves it's 'green lung'.
• Check out the Eisbach surfers - Yes, in the middle of the city.
• Look at Munich Tourist info's suggested itinerary based on the number of days for your visit.
• Nymphenburg Palace + Gardens - Baroque summer palace built in the late 1600s.
• Deutsches Museum - the world's largest technology + science museum.
• Glyptotech - Greek and Roman antiquities
• Alte Pinokothek - Middle age through Rococo European paintings
• Neue Pinokotek - Late 18th to early 20th century art
• Pinokotek der Modern - modern works in various media
• Brandhorst - the city's newest museum featuring an impressive contemporary collection
• Lenbachhaus - 'Blauer Reiter' (blue rider) and 'Munich School' works featuring Klee + Kandinsky
• Haus der Kunst - temporary art exhibits
• Kunst Halle fünf höfe - changing exhibits in a beautiful exhibition space
• Allianz arena tour - English tours of Bayern Munich stadium at 1:30pm daily. Approx. 10€
• Andechs - brewery run by Monks in suburbia Munich.
• Neuschwanstein - King Ludwig II's castle that inspired the Disney castles.
• Dachau - Former concentration camp. Educational and informative, although depressing and prepare for voyeurs. This is a memorial - dress appropriately. Closed Mondays.
• Salzburg - beautiful Baroque city in Austria. 2 hours by train.
• Regensburg - medieval city that survived most WWII damage. Approx. 2 hour train ride.
• Nürnberg - famed for their 'lebkuchen' (christmas cookies) that can be bought year round. Approx. 2 hour train ride.
• Augsburg - once a major trade city during Roman times. Now a college town. The Romantische Straße scenic drive goes through this city.
• Chiemsee - uncompleted replica of Versailles with small islands featuring a nunnery and monastery
• Bier + Oktoberfest Museum - includes the history of beer + purity laws
• Paulaner Brewery Tour - visit one of Munich's beloved breweries for a behind the scenes look + some sampling.
• BMW Welt - where you can watch people pick up their cars direct from the factory. The architecture is worth walking through, which is free.
• Bavaria Film Studios - large film studio where 'The Never Ending Story' was filmed.
• list of more obscure museums (hunting, potatoes, etc.)

If you have a car:

• Hallein Salt mines - learn about the history of salt + visit the mines that made Salzburg wealthy.
• Affenberg Salem - if you want to feed monkeys this is your place.
• Zugspitze - Germany's tallest mountain. The Frillensee at the foothill of the mountain is just spectacular.
• Walchensee - a beautiful lake tucked between the mountains - great for hiking, wind surfing and other outdoor activities. (read about our trip)

[last updated: April 2013]

Visitor's Guide to Salzburg

Since I spend a lot of time in Salzburg, I figured I would write a visitor's guide similar to the one I made for Munich.

Considering I only go to Salzburg a couple times a week, at most, this may not be as thorough, but I will do what I can! To read more of my posts on Salzburg, or to see more photos click here.

Obviously the list will also continue to grow and I will do my best to update it when I stumble upon great things.

These are some of the restaurants + stores that I enjoy and hopefully some helpful info for tourists. Please let me know if you have questions or are planning a trip by commenting on any post. I'll do what I can to help!

Reasons to visit Salzburg

• It's UNESCO's largest world heritage site (Old Town).
• Baroque architecture - they claim everything to be the largest Baroque (fountain, church, etc.) North of the Alps.
• Music - not only do they have the 'living rock' Festungsberg, but they also have everything Mozart (despite the fact he wasn't very fond of Salzburg - but that's another story)
• The Sound of Music
• Mirabell Gardens
• This is a great map of the city from the tourist office.

Some of my favorite restaurants - addresses and locations can be found on the respective websites.

Inexpensive

• Indigo - fast and healthy alternative if you are tired of Austrian (meat heavy) food. Rice and noodle dishes, as well as soups and salads.
• St. Paul's Stube - frequented by college students.
• Vogel frei - international menu with fair prices.
• cappomio - stylish locale with Italian meals. 2 locations.
• Public Market - located in front of the Collegiate Church - typical sausages, produce stands, and Salzburger pretzels.

Austrian food + beer

• Steigl beer is Salzburg's beer. If you would like to visit the Steigl brewery check out Brauwelt. If you just want to try it check out the local grocery.
• Some speciality dishes from Austria include Kaiserschmarrn and Strudel.

Nicer meals

• St. Peter's Keller - one of Europe's oldest restaurants dating back to 803.
• Magazin - a unique and simple restaurant that also offers cooking seminars. Austrian fusion food with Mediterranean and Asian influences.
• M32 - a beautiful restaurant with the most spectacular views
• Restaurant Riedenburg - also has a beautiful 3 course lunch for 18€.

Unique / Specialty

• Carpe Diem - 'finest finger foods', partly owned by Dietrich Mateschitz (owner of Red Bull energy drink). I have seen the Carpe Diem tea brand for sale in the US.
• Bio Bistro Spicy Spice - vegan / vegetarian . Located at Wolf-Dietrich Straße 1.
• Spoon - Asian inspired dishes.  [unfortunately this is closed]
• Demel - a great place for teas, confections, and other sweets. (one of my favorites - amazing gelato) [sadly, closed]
• Fingerlos - exquisite pastries and an all around nice café. (another favorite)
• Braun - an interesting array of unique chocolates.
• Hotel Sacher - includes a café, where you can sample Austria's famed Sacher Torte. If you don't care to sit down, I suggest purchasing a 'würfel' (cube) of cake at the gift shop on the side.
• Fürst Café - purveyors of the original Mozartkugel candy. I recommend the Millennium (champagne) truffles.
• Tomaselli Café - family owned for over 300 years.

Shopping

• Interio - home design shop.
• Billa - grocery in the old town with a fair variety.
• vom fass - specialty wines, vinegars, and oils.
• Kaslöchl - specialty cheese shop with cheeses from all over Europe.
• Christmas in Salzburg - huge selection located at Judengasse 10 in the Altstadt.
• Egg shop - directly across from the Christmas store. Check out their hand painted eggs in the windows... very impressive!
• Getreidegasse - walk down the small walkways that branch off of this main shopping street as well - there are some small, but sweet shops in the courtyards.
  
  *my favorite gifts to take home are : Mozartkugeln, Fürst Millennium truffles, or an ornament to bring home and remember your trip.
  
  Tourist information offices

• Pick up brochures and other information about Salzburg and surrounding cities. Locations at the Train station (platform 2) and in Mozartplatz.

Public Transport

• Bus 100 will take you to the Hauptbahnhof (train station)

Best City Views

• Hohensalzburg Fortress - be aware if you walk, you'll still have to pay to get to the top. I suggest taking Austria's oldest funicular up to the top.
• Art Museum - my personal favorite. For 3€ you can take the elevator for a beautiful view and check out the museum gift shop for some modern gifts. (M32 Restaurant is located at the top)

Popular things to do in and around Salzburg

• Take Austria's oldest funicular up to the Fortress
• Sound of Music bus tour - please note it lasts a long time.
• If you come with children check out the Natural History Museum
• Visit the Mirabell gardens
• Check out a concert
• St. Peter's church
• Eat at the Stiftskeller, which is one of the oldest restaurants in Europe - dating back to 803!
• Salzkammergut - lake district
• Schloss Hellabrunn - palace with trick fountains on the outskirts of town

If you have a car:

• Hallein Salt mines - learn about the history of salt + visit the mines that made Salzburg wealthy.
• Eagle's Nest - Hitler's retreat near Berchtesgaden
• Eisreisenwelt - largest system of ice caves in the world

Schwabing flohmarkt

I decided to give Stefan quiet afternoon to study by heading out for my first flea market. I've read about flea markets and probably got a bit of a false reality of what they were like. I guess I wasn't aware there was so much crap for sale. Adults and children alike cleaned out their things and set up shop on the streets and inner court yards. Some sold interesting items, while others had pure junk, however that's probably in the eye of the beholder. Even some of the stores through the neighborhood offered sales.

The strangest things that I saw, were things made of fur and surfboards. I guess the surfboards shouldn't be so odd since we have the Eisbach where people surf, but I didn't expect that.

I also really liked the war time money, old typewriter, and red metal chairs. I left those treasures for someone else to find.

Other great things that I saw through the day were an adorable little girl on her tyke bike (without peddles), floral shadows on someone's box of junk, and a hip version of a granny cart made out of a rice bag.

My treasures for the day for less than 12€ were: two kitschy + vintage looking steins - complete with lids, an old school atlas from the early 1900s, and a German English dictionary.

Stefan and I have been talking about old maps for some time, because there is the most beautiful antique map shop called Antiquariat am Gasteig, that I pass on occasion. It's located at Rosenheimerstraße 8. Opening hours are Tuesdays and Fridays from 10:30am until 2:30pm, so I have yet to visit.

My fascination with maps, travel, and trade routes gets the best of me when I see these beautiful antique depictions of the world, so naturally this old outdated atlas grabbed my attention. I love how Canada is 'British North America'.

I know I probably have a large variety of bilingual dictionaries already, but this one had old German and the beautiful font made it special. I'm curious at what point they decided to change their scripted letters. Stefan's grandfather taught him how to write old German, although he forgets.

After the flea markets I walked through town. I noticed that tourist season is picking up, and it made me appreciative for less trafficked short cuts around town. I also saw that dean and david was finally open inside of Fünf Höfe - and they are utilizing the beautiful little courtyard perfectly. As soon as Stefan has some time we'll head over for lunch. The dotted screen that casts the most beautiful little shadows has a zen quality to it and drips water into the pools below. I think it's such a pretty little place.