Ohio's African Safari

A few years ago I went with my parents to visit The Wilds, a sanctuary in my home state of Ohio. This conservation center helps to educate people by giving them incredible a first hand safari experience in America's heartland. It's also partnered with the Columbus Zoo, which famed zoo keeper Jack Hanna calls home.

In addition to their safari outings they have recently introduced the opportunity to stay overnight in a yurt at Nomad Ridge. The Wilds encompass about 10,000 acres, which is ⅔ the size of Manhattan, so you might have to remind yourself that you're not in Africa.

Marrakech

One of my painting teachers in college told me he thought I would really enjoy Marrakech and now I can tell him that he was right. It was so nice to be able to spend so much time exploring the city, because there is so much to see and do.

The area is conducive to getting lost - even if you have a reasonable map, which often leads to some interesting places.

The Djemaa el Fna...

is where most roads lead and at night this UNESCO site really awakens with an array of characters, foods, sounds, and smells.

- One of my favorite things was sitting at the little café on the corner and watching the action down below at dusk and watching the early evening action. The light was magnificent and it steadily faded into night.

Snake Charmers

Produce Market...

it felt like we were stepping back in time to see the weights + scales that were used.

Goods Markets...

one of many places to buy tea sets, clothing, carpets, decor + household items.

Transport...

seeing donkeys, horses, carts, motorbikes, and cars sharing the roads.

Souks...

there were a large array of goods for sale, but the light beams shining through the thatched roof was especially beautiful. (Side note: Stefan had no idea this slab of meat was behind him.)

Souks at Night...

so quiet compared to the hustle and bustle of the day.

Escargot...

food may be safe, but dishware can be problematic since there aren't great washing facilities - or so we were warned.

Terrasse des Épices...

this was our favorite restaurant. The ambiance and food were both fantastic. It was recommended by Jamie Oliver. Ironically we saw signs with 'Jimmy Oliver' and 'Jimmy Holliver' painted on many restaurants at other places around the city. I read about this one on his website.

Guéliz...

Considered 'New Marrakech' and has a very European feel. It's also an easy place to go for things with marked prices instead of bartering.

Guéliz • 16 café...

Modern foods and fantastic pastries

Guéliz • Grand Café de la Poste...

another recommendation by Jamie Oliver. The food here was terrific and the restaurant was very elegant. It drew a very interesting set of characters.

Koutoubia Mosque + Gardens...

beautifully tended with orange trees, greenery and a bit of shade.

City Walls...

those little holes allowed for the expanding and contrasting of the stone as it was being built.

Tanner's District...

even as soon as we approached the area men would come up with photos of the colorful Fes market to show us in hopes of guiding us there (In Marrakech it's not as colorful). Many people and children are more than willing to offer help back in exchange for some pocket money, although it's easy to visit on your own as well, which is what we did. The children were sweet - they would start yelling 'fermé (closed)' if you ventured down a residential dead end.

Palais Bahia...

one of the most visited sites in Marrakech. There are so many beautiful patterns, textures, and architectural details.

Jardin Majorelle...

this botanical garden is really something special. It was designed in 1924 during the colonial times by a French expat.

Memorial to Yves Saint Laurent

Oasis...

it's incredible to think this is more or less in the middle of a desert, because the area is so lush and green.

Marjorelle Blue...

Not quite Yves Klein blue, but quite similar and equally as beautiful.

Train Station at dusk

Mosques

Palmerie

Camels

Lantern shop...

I wanted a bright colored lantern and there was only one shop where we saw them for sale. I tried to negotiate for one and the man told me they start at 600 dirhams, which is about 60€. I went with the approach of knowing what I'd be willing to pay and being willing to walk away, which is what I ended up doing.

- We went back another evening with a plan and had a different sales man. Stefan tried his hand and incredibly the starting price was mysteriously 400 dirhams, or 20€ less than I was initially offered. Typically giving 10-20% of their initial offer and not more than 50% is fair market value.

Spices + Tagines...

we also brought back lots of spices and this little tagine trio, which is currently home to a variety of salts on our table, because I certainly love salt - and having a useful reminder from our travels.

Moroccan Riads

Something wonderful about Marrakech, and all of Morocco, are the gorgeous riads. Each of these traditional homes provides a small oasis from the chaotic hustle and bustle of the city. They are relatively small for hotel standards with typically 5 or 6 rooms, a courtyard, and often beautiful roof top terraces.

Upon looking for hotels I have to say I was overwhelmed, because there are so many impeccably styled options. In the end, we chose Dar One during our first stay in Marrakech and Riad Awa after our return from Essaouira. Neither were exactly easy to find, which tended to be the theme of the old Medina with its winding streets and back alleyways. Behind unassuming doors are these brilliant and spacious abodes.

At Dar One, our suite even had its own private terrace overlooking the city. It was relaxing to go up and hear the nearby storks clacking as they sat perched atop the mosques. I also loved to hear the call to prayer echoing through the city.

The owner, Jean Pere, was very inviting. He told us he lives out in the country, although he stops by the riad frequently and often with his two dogs in tow, who appeared so worn out they hardly batted an eye when we pet them. The maps that we were given had many wonderful restaurants and locales marked and with those we set out to explore the city. It was a great introduction to the Medina.

At Riad Awa our room had a gorgeous headboard that was etched concrete with built in lights and beautiful intricate details everywhere you looked. Once again it was a very relaxed atmosphere... so relaxed in fact that people didn't lock their room doors when they were out in town.

Both riads had great roof terraces with quiet areas to relax in after busy days exploring the Medina.

If you're planning a trip to Morocco it's best to know the riads typically take cash payments and you'll have to get Dirhams once you arrive, so plan for that, or make sure they know you'll be paying with Euros beforehand!

Flight to Marrakech

Our flight to Marrakech was through perfect weather, which enabled us to see much of what was down below including:

The exact moments when we cross the Pyrenees mountains (where my family's dogs are from)...

When we left Spanish airspace and crossed onto the African continent.

Beautiful remote villages with very interesting topography. Incredibly this photo has only been color corrected.

The red buildings that are everywhere in Marrakech... and perfectly suited for some tilt-shift photography from the plane

As-Salāmu`Alaykum*

We are finally back from our Winter hiatus. Morocco is full of energy, beautiful colors, patterns, cheerful residents, and delicious foods. The warm African sun was fantastic and that glow was radiating, especially at dusk.

In addition to Marrakech we also visited the beach in sleepy sea side Essaouira. They were wonderfully different from one another, but both incredible in their own rights.

I'm really trying my best to get through editing these photos, especially because we have quite a few more trips lined up before the summer sun rolls back around. I can't wait to share the great things we saw, ate, and experienced. We even tried our hand at price negotiating... Stefan is clearly more seasoned than me.

* Peace be upon you, in Arabic.

Morocco

We are gearing up for another trip. This time we'll be heading back to North Africa for a week in Morocco. It will be a really neat trip for a variety of reasons.

We'll be fresh from trips to Lisbon - with the Moorish architecture, and in Paris we can brush up on our French. It's always nice to get a dose of sun in the middle of the cold winter, too.

All of those beautiful patterns, colors, and markets already have us very excited.

Our trip will begin in Marrakech and we're not quite sure if we'll venture to Essaouira or Chefchaouen as well, but we're open to suggestions and tips!

So far I've been checking out Hip Morocco and the beautiful Riads, like Dar One. All of the photos I see look absolutely incredible, which doesn't make decision making any easier.

Cairo Tips

We were fortunate to have friends that have lived in Cairo. They shared many places that they would recommend we visit. Everyone agreed that staying on Zamalek Island is the best bet for foreigners. There is a large ex-pat population there, as well as several nicer hotels (Marriott + Longchamps).

Here were their other suggestions if you're planning a trip yourself:

Kate is my old roommate who taught 2 years at the American International School in Cairo. Here are her recommendations:

 Cairo (3 days)

• Egyptian Museum
  
• Great Pyramids
  
• There is a Sphnix light show which is pretty tacky, they make the sphnix look like it is talking but mildly entertainning
  
• Step pyramid (Saqqara - further outside the city)
  
• Sequoia restaurant on Zamalek
  
• smoke shisha
  
• feluka little boat ride at night on the Nile
  

Alexandria (1-2 days) - it is a nice contrast from Cairo

• easy train ride from Cairo (you could do it in a day)
  
• library
  
• light house
  
• nice park
  

Nile cruise (ususally around 4-5 days long)

• we used Sonnesta which is an international hotel chain, it was great
  
• they are small boats but still nice, i don't know if there is a nicer ship, I just know Sonnesta is a safe bet
  
• it includes your own english speaking guide when you get to the temples
  

Sharm el Sheik (4-5 days)

• flights leave from the Cairo Airport or you can take an overnight bus (thats what I did)
  
• There is amazing scuba diving and snorkeling there the best in the world apparently behind Australia
  
• It is a beach destination with a day trip to Mount Sinai
  
• You can catch a bus to Mount Sinai and I think there is a monastery you can stay in for the night and then you hike Mount Sinai and reach the top when the sun rises. I never did it and really regret not doing it. The people I know who have done it say it is beautiful.
  
  

Lizzy went to my University and then studied Economics in International Development at American University of Cairo. She said..."so here are a few suggestions (in order of how much I enjoy them) depending on how much time you have...":

• Some night you should get a group to join you and rent a little sail boat (known as a Faluga) and cruise the Nile. You can pick up a boat just across the street from the Four Seasons / which is also right next to the Grand Hyatt

• You have to spend a day doing Pyramids and I recommend heading out to Saqqara and the Step Pyramid in addition to the three great pyramids. There are far fewer tourist and you can climb inside one of them.
• One night you should go to Al Azhar Garden for sunset - you are overlooking Khan al-Khalili, al-Azhar University, and an area sometimes called, 'Islamic Cairo". At sunset you can enjoy a view of the pyramids, and of course the call to prayer...which is something really unique. It is also near Khan al-Khalili (see below) so you could do this in the same night. 
• You have to go to the main souk: Khan al-Khalili... but if you don't like hassle then I suggest walking around for 15 minutes and then heading towards Hussein mosque which has a huge courtyard that families often go to at night just to spend time 'out' and catch up. There is also a quiter part of the souk (without many tourist) on the other side of the main highway and that is nice. You can also make your way towards the 'tent-makers' souk, but you might need someone to explain it to you. 
• On this same side of the main street there is a free Sufi mystic performance twice a week that is wonderful and sponsored by the ministry of tourism. 
• There is also a cool mosque named Al Ghouri mosque and it is possible to climb the minaret there if you make a donation.
• You should head to Sequia in the Zamalek neighborhood for great Shisha (the water pipe tobacco) a really nice dinner (they have great Sushi). Most hotels know where this is but taxi drivers don't so make sure to get a street address and phone number (for the taxi driver to call from his mobile) before heading there.
• Also in Zamalek, you should visit the Marriott hotel, it is a grand colonial building with a cool garden where you can get drinks and enjoy a few minutes of relaxing quite.
• Near there is a cool bookstore named Diwan and an awesome pizza place called Maison Thomas.
  
• There is an awesome place that does 'zar' music every Wednesday, named 'Makan' near the Saad Zagul mausoleum. It is really unique and worth a stop.

Here are our observations and tips:

• If you go to Cairo, presumably you will arrive very late. Our flight got in at 12:50am - not exactly a great time to have the taxi drivers fight over you. Instead of heckling with the taxi drivers, we planned ahead and booked with Cairo Shuttle Bus, which cost 80 LE (approximately 10€) for a half hour drive into the city. It was probably more expensive than some of the Taxis, but it was quick and reliable. 

• As soon as you arrive you start opening your wallet. We were immediately paying approximately $15 USD for a visa (no photos needed) at the the currency exchange counter. Getting Egyptian Pounds is cheaper and easier once you arrive in Egypt. During our visit 7.7 LE was equal to 1€. Despite a low cost of living it's very easy to spend a fair chunk of money, particularly if you get a guide and driver, however ours were very well worth it. 

• Learning a bit of Arabic really helps gain some smiles from the locals. Rani told us if you touch something electric you get shocked and then what do you do? You run. So to say Thank You, simply say 'shockrun' (shukran - شكراًَ).

• As a woman you will feel most comfortable being very conservative. I realize the heat makes a lot of people want to peel the layers off, but you will attract far less attention and blend in. Finding some loose fitting pants or tunics made of cotton or linen will also help you against the sunburns. If you plan to enter a mosque make sure you bring a scarf to cover your head.

• Animals are treated entirely different. We saw horses in the river, presumably getting a bath and people were throwing large rocks at them. We also saw one of the guards at our hotel mistreating a dog, which I shudder even thinking about. I realize it's a different culture, but I don't like to see animals or people being blatantly mistreated.

• Cairo traffic is unlike anything you've probably ever seen. It's worse than New York City, and also worse than Rome. There's not a lot of rhyme or reason to it. We did see a couple wrecks - only minutes apart, although Rani told us that was actually a rarity. Unfortunately, when it's not, insurance is not typically involved.

• The sound of the street is filled with honking horns, which we were told denote emotion - from anger to joy. During one traffic jam I even heard a car next to us put an emergency siren to use, despite obviously not being an emergency vehicle.

• The smog is really wretched. Often times it seems that big businesses take advantage of the fact the people don't have much, so instead they pollute and make a profit off the vulnerable. From what I have read the air quality is really awful in Cairo. I didn't exactly have to read that, because you can see it with your own eyes.

• I also read that Egypt is a hot spot for medical tourism, and unfortunately the cities poorest of the poor are often told they can get several thousand dollars for a kidney or other vital organ. It's no surprise when the people aren't paid the full amount they were promised, nor do they have follow up health care.

• Many of the buildings are dilapadated or appear to simply be made from brick - some even have live stock, such as goats, on the roof tops. You quickly appreciate space, nature, and what a celebration Ramadan is to the Islamic religion.

• Our trip was too short and frankly there is so much to see and digest that it is somewhat exhausting. As much as we read about things, this was a trip that wasn't simple to plan for, even with recommendations and advice from friends who had lived there.
  

Having Rani to help answer questions and take care of everything we would need to explore the city was something that helped make our trip wonderful. Of course people can and do get around town on their own, but I highly recommend having a private guide to make things easier.

• Cairo has several fringe societies, namely - The City of the Dead and Mokattam's Zaballeen (Garbage Collectors). While pollution is a great problem in Cairo, many of the Coptic Christians are trying to help the issue in sorting trash and recycling, which you can read more about from Kids with Cameras, an interesting way to empower the often outcasted youth in this community. You can even purchase prints to help their cause!

• There was also a film called “Garbage Dreams” by Director Mai Iskander that premiered this month at the SXSW Festival in Texas, that is based in this area. While we didn't make a special trip to this area, I'm pretty certain we passed it.
  

If you care to read about a tourist's perspective about the City of the Dead or Zaballeen, just click on the links.