Tilt Shift

I'm so in love with this website that Rachel posted on her blog. It's called Tilt Shift Maker and it enables common folk like myself, that don't have a specially designed tilt shift camera to create beautiful photos that look like they are miniatures. After I spent way more time than I care to admit using the site, here are a few of my favorites...

Rome + Cairo

East Greenland

Reykjavik

The trick is to find photos where the focus is on the foreground with a large depth of field and it also helps if there is some height. I'd still like to try bokeh.

I really need to decide what kind of camera to get, which was my birthday gift way back in January. Any recommendations?

Rome: Day 4

The morning of our last day, while Stefan slept, I discovered why there was an enormous line of people on our way to the Maltese keyhole. We had passed the Santa Maria in Cosmedin church.

In their portico is 'La Bocca della Verità' or better known as 'The Mouth of Truth'. We had talked about it the day before, although we weren't certain where it was located. I couldn't believe we were right there. Not all was lost, we decided to head back to see it.

Stefan stopped for an espresso - using the tip to get it at Caffé Greco counter, like the Italians. I don't drink coffee, but he said it was wonderful.

On our way to 'The Mouth of Truth' we also had a pleasant surprise at the Circus Maximus. I assume it was some kind of club, but there were marching gladiators speaking Latin. On occasion they would start chanting 'Roma'. It was odd, but somehow fitting.

The costumes were very elaborate and interesting. Somehow they seemed less kitschy than the gladiators in front of the Colosseum that were trying to make a profit for pictures with tourists.

I didn't see too much graffiti around the city (mainly in the Jewish Ghetto area), which somehow surprised me. I guess people may realize leaving their mark isn't as substantial as the ancient ruins around the city.

It was difficult to leave, but the drizzly weather helped to make that easier. It's always fitting to have a spectacular trip that ends with rain on the day to go home. Even though it was only a long weekend, we really started to feel at home. We went to the grocery in the neighborhood and even began to find favorite places. I'm definitely looking forward to a trip back at some point. We even made it to throw our coins in the Trevi right before we left.

Once we arrived back to Munich and the longest winter ever, I was sad that my Italian pastas and confections would soon run out. That was until my classmate Julia, from Spain, told me about Mitte Meer, here in Munich. It's located in the Kunstpark (behind Ostbahnhof) and it's a Mediterranean grocery with a really nice array of wines, meats, cheeses, fish, and confections. We went together after class and now I'm hooked. They even have Pan di Stelle cookies and Manchego cheese - all year round!

Rome: Day 3

As soon as we excited the subway the Colosseum was directly in front of us. The weather was fantastic and really made me ache for Spring.

I can't believe all of the ancient ruins. The Coloseum was used as a cultural experience in it's heyday some 2000 years ago. People would go for entertainment to see humans fighting humans and humans fighting animals. The animals would not be fed for days before the fights. Often times the gladiators would be injured and plead for mercy. Those who were permitted to stop fighting would often die from their wounds.

The Colosseum itself was constructed with steps on various levels and those were the seats. A person's status would denote where they were to sit, with women sitting at the very top. The façade was a combination of marble and plaster to make it appear white, which made it an example of the people's wealth. What's so impressive is the engineering and design. It still serves as the model for stadiums and arenas around the world.

We opted to go on an English tour, which was interesting. We were surprised to learn that a lot of materials were taken from the Colosseum and used for various other buildings in Rome, including St. Peter's Basilica. We also learned many of the smaller holes contained wood beams, which disintegrated due to time.

Many people claim there were water battles at the Colosseum, however it's not known if that was true. According to our guide, who was officially with the Colosseum, it appears as though that was mentioned in some kind of ancient document, however it's not known exactly which Colosseum was being referred to. There were several others in the area and closer to the Circus Maximus.

There were so many interesting details and it was so fascinating to look things and wonder about. The shapes and lines were striking and the newer additions, such as a cat who made itself at home somehow seemed fitting.

There was also a beautiful view from the Colosseum looking towards the Forum Romanum and the Arch of Constantine. There's so much to see in this compact area.

The Forum Romanum was the hub of faith, justice, and economics. It's so incredible that these ruins date back to
The only reason many of them were preserved was because they were marked with a cross and converted from pagan worship sights to Christian churches. The Forum dates back to the times of Julius Caesar between 100 BC and 44 BC! That's so incredible.

Near by is also the modern center of government at the Capitoline Hill, which was in part designed by Michelangelo. It was so exciting to see Romulus and Remus, the feral children founders of Rome in the Statue of the Capitoline Wolf.

The Palantine Hill and Circus Maximus are also very close. This is the area where they would have chariot races... and now it's an open field. It was somewhat strange to see people going for a run on the ruins, but I understand life has to go on - and there's not much left anyway.

We went to visit the secret key hole, which is in such a beautiful area. The 'Giardino degli Aranci' at the top of the Aventine Hill is definitely also worth a stop. I don't want to completely spoil the secret, but I will say you have to walk until you see the Egpytian and more importantly Maltese Consulates. In front of the Maltese Consulate is the door (Priorato di Malta). You will probably be slightly taken aback once you see military men with machine guns, but just walk past. There will most likely be a line of people, but it's such an incredible sight. It's something you can only capture with your eye.

For dinner we considered going to the Sora Margherita (association restaurant), however we also wanted to sample what's been hailed as the best pizza in Rome. We went to check both restaurants out, which was quite a hike, but ultimately our decision was swayed by a combination of tired feet and Italians Grandmas.

We read that we would need to be very prompt and that doors opened at 6:30PM. As soon as we arrived there were three Italian Grandmas knocking on the door and trying to get the owner's attention. We knew that was a good sign. Not long after a line began to form. Through the windows we could see the men loading up the wood fired oven and getting things ready for what I presume is a standard evening. After Signore Baffetto opened the doors people were ushered in. Since we were second in line we picked a table directly next to the oven so we could watch them work.

It took no time for the restaurant to fill and for another line to form. I loved the unpretentious realness. It felt like we were sitting in someone's kitchen, our pitcher of wine was chipped, and there were many drawings and photos hanging on the walls. Signore Baffetto didn't care if you didn't speak or understand Italian - he just kept rattling on. We quickly ordered and ate our pizzas and then decided to order more. The man making our pizzas looked puzzled and asked our waiter something. He looked at our table and then we heard 'quatro'. Evidently two people don't typically order 4 pizzas. The French couple next to us was slightly nerved when we received our second round of pizzas and paid before they had even gotten their first order. I also have to mention once things picked up a second pizza maker came in and he had that raspy Italian voice you always hear on movies. It seemed so fitting. The grand total for 4 pizzas, sparkling water, and a half liter of wine - less than 50€!

We took our left overs back to our apartment for a quick breakfast the next day. On our walk home we stopped at a bakery and enjoyed some Amaretti cookies. I really need to get a good recipe from my Italian classmate.

We knew it would be really difficult to leave on our last day.

Rome: Life

Right around the corner from our apartment was a beautiful restaurant that we had walked past. After a full day at the Vatican we were spent, but that didn't stop us from wanting to enjoy a delicious Italian meal.

Little did we know it would be fantastic. Stefan and I both ordered appetizers, pizza, wine and cocktails, and everything was spot on. We also did not expect the super attentive wait staff. They were very helpful and service oriented, which can be a real rarity in Europe.

After our meal our waiter was joking around with us and said he'd only give us the bill if we could ask in Italian. Stefan replied 'Sconti' and the table next to us got a good laugh, as did our waiter. Apparently if you and an 's' before the word it tends to be the opposite, so in essence he was asking for a discount.

The waiter came back with our bill and a Limoncello apertief and said 'here's your cheque and here's your discount'.

The table next two us was two young women who we began chatting with. The heard us speaking a mix of English and German and assumed I was the German and Stefan was the American. It turns out they were an American (Maya) from New York City who has been living in Rome for 10 months and a Polish woman (Karolina) who has been living there for 8 years.

Karolina was heading to New York City for the first time the very next day, so Maya was giving her tips on visiting her hometown. We all discussed being ex-pats and how being foreign can occasionally set you up for being taken advantage of, which is Karolina's experience every time she gets a cab even after 8 years living there and speaking fluent Italian.

I loved Maya's seasoned approach to things. She was talking about how people can get fussy with you, especially when they don't have patience for you learning their language and trying your best. Being American, we both know that it's not our nature to treat people so disrespectfully, but as she said, sometimes you have to give them the same treatment since this is how they are accustomed to communicating. This isn't something that would or will ever come easy to me, but I understand her rational. Often times people who don't even know you will offer criticisms and ridiculous comments, especially if they aren't certain you understand what they are saying. I'm really amazed at the blatant rudeness and from our conversation things are no different in Italy.

We had such a fantastic conversation and they offered a multitude of tips, which I am happy to share, because they were wonderful and helped shape the rest of our days. The consensus was that Life was their favorite restaurant and just a couple doors down was their favorite gelato at Mio desiderio.

Karolina's Tips:

• Near the Colosseum - Parco Colle Oppio
  
• Trattoria Morgana Via Mecenate
  
• Salotto 42 - a beautiful bar
  
• TAD - a design concept store
  
• Caffe Greco - cafe on the posh Via Condotti, 86. An extra tip: if you have an espresso, or whatever kind of drink, drink it like an Italian at the bar -you pay 90 cents as opposed to 5€, simply for sitting down at a table. You pay at the little cashier in the corner before getting your drink at the bar. 
  
  

Maya's Tips:

• Aventine hill - Parco degli aranci: a beautiful view over the city. It's so very romantic. 
  
• Jewish ghetto - Sora Margherita on via Cinque Scole. This is a hidden restaurant. There is no sign and it is more similar to a family kitchen. Zoning laws required that it be shut down, however they found a loophole and it's now an association, so they may ask to fill out a form to 'join'.
  
• Santa Maria Maggiore - the miracle church that had snow in August, which is why it was built. 
  
• Near the Colosseum - San Clemente 'cursing church'. On the wall is one of the first examples of written Italian, which contains early cursing. 
  
• Caravaggio paintings - Church of San Luigi dei Francesi, Church of Sant'Agostino, and Church of Santa Maria del Popolo (cited in Dan Brown's Angels and Demons). 
  

Unfortunately we didn't have time to do everything, but we were highly impressed about everything we were able to do on their list of suggestions.

Vatican: Day 2

Today we ventured past the Spanish steps to the subway. There weren't too many tourists since it was still a weekday, which was part of our rational for going to the Vatican today.

The area is so beautiful. There is something wonderful about the old architecture and all of those cobble streets.

As always the subway didn't disappoint. There are always so many beautiful designs and patterned tiles. I really appreciate the urbanness of it.

When we arrived in Vatican City, I instantly noticed clergymen and women walking around the area. Some appeared to be tourists, while others looked as if they were conducting their daily business. And then we came to Piazza San Pietro. Talk about grand!

The area was really immense. It's also crazy to think this building is from the 4th century. It's even crazier to think that St. Peter, one of Jesus' apostles, is buried under the Basilica and was the reason it was built. Coincidentally it's also the largest Christian church in the world. Stefan kept comparing it to Allianz Arena since they both hold roughly 60,000 people.

We noticed the line to enter the Basilica was moving along rather quickly, however we had 11:00am tickets to the museum, so we couldn't take advantage of that just yet. When we arrived at the museum we were once again surprised to find short lines, even though we were able to bypass them with our tickets.

The museum is rather ridiculous and opulent. It really made us ask a lot of questions about the Catholic church, their wealth, and their secrets.

Every ceiling was better than the next and they were so elaborate and carefully thought out. Many of the rooms were crowded, so I can only imagine what it's like during high tourist season. There were so many beautiful things to see and it took quite some time to walk through and admire this extensive collection.

We were awestruck as we looked at pieces - from mummies and Egyptian works to sculptures and paintings by the masters: Da Vinci, Raphael, Titan, Caravaggio, and of course Michelangelo. Impressive doesn't even begin to describe it. And then we went into the Sistine Chapel.

This is the only time throughout the museum that we felt as though we were slightly herded through - or at least packed in, since we could linger. Due to a filled chapel, I didn't notice the sign saying that photography wasn't permitted. There were people with video cameras blatantly filming and taking photos. I was doing the same until I realized I wasn't supposed to. Oops! The second picture I took by placing my camera on the floor with the self timer since I didn't have a tripod... I wasn't trying to be sneaky. We did the same thing at the Pantheon and the results were perfect.

On our way through the museum we passed several makeshift gift shops that were set up. I noticed a puzzle of the Sistine Chapel and instantly thought of my Grandma, who absolutely loves puzzles and always complains she can't find much variety. We decided carrying a puzzle through the entire day would be a bit much. Then, as we were sending our post cards from the Vatican Post Office (which is reputed to be faster than Italian mail), we got the idea of sending one from there to surprise her. The unfortunate thing is they didn't have boxes large enough to fit it, so we had to break the box down before putting it in the mailer. I'm really looking forward to hearing what she thinks, because I know she'll be very surprised.

After spending a large part of the day at the museum we decided to wait in line for the Basilica. Lucky enough we were behind a group of young American girls who were trying really hard to be cultural. We almost lost it when we heard one of them say, 'It's just like Disney World - they just try to herd you in and out.' I'm embarrassed for this girl and clearly understand why Americans are given a bad wrap when I hear things like that.

After going through a bit of security we walked into the Basilica. I quickly noticed the Pieta to the right. The entire basilica was very ornate. There were so many details. Stefan deciphered most of the Latin for me while I tried to take in every last detail.

I love how every detail seems like it was meticulously planned. Rome, and the Catholic church in this instance, definitely enjoyed displaying their wealth. And the talent of the artists is so impressive and surreal. In situations like this I think of our new found love of building for the moment and not for posterity.

The sculptures are glorious and knowing how much time and skill was invested to make them makes me appreciate all of it that much more.

I would love to see what a modern day Leonardo da Vinci or Michelangelo would create, especially considering they could create so much without using our modern technology.

Again, so much detail was shining down from above. The ceilings and domes with the ornate details, colors, and patterns sparkled in the sunlight. The entire basilica had a warm glow to it, which was very inviting.

The baldacchino over St. Peter's resting place is 98 feet of bronze. I can't even imagine how long it took to plan and bring to fruition, especially with various men working on it. I'm sure they had conflicting ideas as to how it should be done.

Next, we opted to be slightly lazy when visiting the cupola by taking the elevator and then walking 300+ steps, as opposed to a few hundred more. Once we arrived at the narrow walkway around the cupola designed by Giacomo della Porta and Fontana, we noticed all of the mosaics. In several of these photos you can see the scale in comparison to a person. Unreal.

Once we arrived at the top we could see the fantastic reward and beautiful panoramic view of the city. It struck me just how small Vatican City truly is. I can understand how the Holy Roman Empire continues on and on once we tried to pick out the ancient ruins in the distance. Coincidentally I also learned that the black and gold flags in Munich represent the Holy Roman Empire. I also get a good laugh out of fully understanding that Salzburg aspired to be 'Rome of the North'. Those are some pretty big shoes to fill!

There was another viewing deck and of course gift shop, on a lower level roof. I loved the curving lines of this rather androgenous religious figure. So very pretty! After climbing high we decided to go into the crypt and see Pope John Paul II's grave. It was quite moving, especially since there were so many nuns praying in front of it. It also allowed us to get a closer view of St. Peter's burial place.

After a rather long day at the Vatican we continued walking on towards Castel Sant'Angelo and the Angel's bridge. At this point I would have really appreciated having a subway nearby, but every time they work on constructing more they run into ruins and must excavate. Walking for 8-9 hours each day is a lot. Thankfully there was more gelato along the way. The dark chocolate was my favorite.

We walked back to the subway at dusk and then decided that we would stay closer to our apartment for dinner. I will write a separate post about that, because we had a very pleasant surprise.

Rome: Day 1

We just arrived in Rome this afternoon and I'm beyond happy here. It's great as always to have time with Stefan, but the sunny weather, our beautiful apartment, delicious foods, and a city steeped in such history makes it that much better. As we walked down the street we noticed all of the oranges on the trees - most of them were at the top due to people grabbing them off for a quick snack. The warm weather was just what we needed.

The apartment we rented is really beautiful and it was such a steal. Giuseppe, the man that owns it, was so accomodating and nice.

I felt like we were borrowing a friend's place, especically after he gave us a bottle of red wine from Sicily and stocked the fridge with beverages. The location was also absolutely perfect - right near the Trevi Fountain, The Spanish Steps, and Via Dei Condotti (the street of all of the Italian designers).

We went past the Trevi Fountain at dusk. It was so beautiful and grandiose. There were plenty of tourists tossing their coins in.

As we walked through town today I really was thinking about my Art History courses, professors, and classes. It's so strange to spend so much time learning about something and the finally be standing there - able to see, touch, and feel some of that magic. I got a nice laugh out of seeing the Pantheon and then seeing the McDonald's directly across the plaza. It's such a dichotomy to see something so mass produced and such a stunning piece of architecture sharing the same space.

Tonight we stopped at the grocery and bought things for an authentic Italian meal. Wow! It was really delicious... wine, mozzarella di bufala, fresh pesto, foccocia. We were really impressed by the fish selection at the grocery as well. There's just something about visiting foreign groceries that is always exciting. I'm having a tough time not consuming all of the pizza that I see along the way. Stefan also discovered gelato directly across from our apartment, and it was better than I remembered. I'm sure I will be sampling many more to figure out which one is the best. I hate finding things that I enjoy so much, because I'll simply crave them for months afterward. It already looks like we'll need another trip back!

Tomorrow we are off to the Vatican, so we'll be calling it a night rather early. We did take the advice to book tickets online, so we won't have to stand in line. I can't even imagine seeing the Sistine Chapel. It truly is one thing after the next here. Yet another city that would take a life time to discover and learn about.

Home in Rome

I'm really picky at finding the perfect hotel. We wanted a central and modern location and even considered staying in a convent. There is so much to see in this ancient city and I know we'll be seriously worn out at the end of the day.

Many of the modern and simple hotels weren't in the city center and then I found the perfection solution - an apartment. I was impressed with many of the choices, although most were already booked. I even saw one with a stairway designed by Michelangelo himself! I'm impressed to say the least.

Here is the apartment we chose:

While we probably won't be utilizing all of the space and I'm not sure how much we will cook, I like having the option. Our apartment is very close to the Spanish steps and Trevi Fountain, which is perfect for my first visit. I've also heard great things about the trendy Trastevere neighborhood, but this time we'll be closer to the sites.

Right now I'm fine tuning our list of things to do:

• Getting tickets to the Vatican Museum online so we don't have to stand in lines
  
• Reading up in my Zagat book about recommended restaurants and hoping to find Rome's most delicious pizza (and pastries!)
  
• Searching for the offbeat and beautiful little hidden shops
• Learning about what markets are available while we're visiting
  

...and of course I'm open to any suggestions! I know sometimes the best way to really get to know a city is simply to wander around and get lost.

Early surprises

The past few weeks have been really busy and trying for me and Stefan. It's been difficult to only have time together on the weekends, but we try to make the most of it. Fortunately that looks to be something that is going to taper down, especially with the holidays around the corner.

We will be heading to the US to celebrate Christmas with my family, which will be the first time for us to celebrate with them since I moved here. This will also be Stefan's first proper American Christmas.

The past few weeks I've been stocking up on German treats for everyone at home. I can't wait to enjoy a loud, children filled family gathering and having some of my Grandma's wonderful baklava.

There's also talk of my parents getting another puppy, so Stefan is keeping his fingers crossed for that. That would mean 8 muddy paws to clean, 2 baths to give, and a lot more work. Even so, we'd at least have fun playing in the snow with Mieka, the family dog.

During our visit we will also be making trips to New York City to visit friends and then make our way down to Washington DC to see more family. I'm looking forward to the calmness before Obama's inauguration.

Not only do we have that to look forward to, we even have some guaranteed time together in the coming year. I always keep an eye on affordable flights and today we booked two!

First, we'll be heading to Rome in late February. Can you believe I've never been to Rome? It's one of Stefan's favorite cities and I am sure we'll have a great time. The art historian in me is going to absolutely love it, especially since I won't have to fight through loads of tourists.

We're considering a stay at one of the convents, which offer rooms, but I know they also have plenty of design oriented hotels as well if we need a fall back.

For the second trip we will be heading to Cairo in March. I am simply in awe that I will be seeing the Giza pyramids for myself. We're also in luck, because my old roommate Kate used to live there, so I am certain she will have some fantastic tips.

I would definitely say 2009 is off to an amazing start.

(images: flickr - washington dc, rome, cairo)